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Meme’s Pear Chow-Chow

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Photo by Chelsea Kyle

A Southern tradition, chow-chow is a spicy, pickled fruit-and-vegetable relish that utilizes the produce at the end of the harvest. The fruit and vegetables can vary from recipe to recipe, and can include green tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions, cabbage, carrots, and cucumber. Since Meme and Dede had a pear tree in their yard, they made chow-chow with pears. When I called Aunt Louise to ask for this recipe, she started reciting, “A peck of pears, peeled, cored, and sliced.” I laughed. Members of my family teasingly offer loving sentiments accompanied by the phrase, “A bushel and a peck, and a hug around the neck.” But that is pretty much the extent of my definitive knowledge about a peck. However, a peck is an actual measurement: one-fourth of a bushel, which is about fifty pounds, depending on what is being measured. Bushel and peck baskets made of curved wooden slats with thin wire handles are still seen at farmer’s markets and farm stands all across the South.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 4 quarts

Ingredients

One peck (12 1/2 pounds) pears, peeled, cored, and thickly sliced
2 1/2 onions, preferably Vidalia, chopped
2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
2 1/2 cups distilled white vinegar
1 pound sugar (scant 2 1/2 cups)
2 teaspoons pickling salt (see page 300)
2 teaspoons pickling spices
2 teaspoons ground turmeric

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, working in batches, combine the pears, onions, and bell peppers, and pulse until ground but still slightly chunky. Place the mixture in a large, nonreactive pot and stir to combine.

    Step 2

    Add the vinegar, sugar, pickling salt, pickling spices, and turmeric and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until thick, about 30 minutes.

    Step 3

    Meanwhile, sterilize four 1-quart canning jars and lids in boiling water, following the manufacturer’s instructions (or see Boiling-Water Canning, page 279). Remove the jars from the water and place upside down to drain on the prepared rack. Remove the lids from the water and dry with a clean towel. Turn the sterilized jars right side up on the rack, using tongs or a kitchen towel to protect your hands. When they are cool enough to handle, dry them with a clean towel. Set aside.

    Step 4

    Fill the hot jars according to the procedure for Raspberry Jam (page 289), leaving 1/4 inch of headroom, and process them in a boiling-water canner for 10 minutes. Store the unopened jars at room temperature for up to 1 year. Once the jars are opened, store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

  2. variation

    Step 5

    For refrigerator preserves, skip the boiling-water canner and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Cover of Bon Appetit, Yall by Virginia Willis featuring a serving of corn souffle.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.
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