Gourmet

Flambéing was all the rage in the '40s, not only for its drama but also for its utility — chafing dishes let the cook go home early and let the host or hostess show off in the dining room. Everyone's heard of cherries Jubilee, but we prefer strawberries set aflame in boozy syrup.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr When Craig Claiborne accepted an invitation to a hunt breakfast in Virginia, he didn't understand that riding a horse would be part of the deal. He found the experience hair-raising but furnished us with a delightful account of that weekend — along with this fluffy rendition of the South's beloved grits. It makes a good side dish to almost any meat — especially ham, of course.

This bread uses a yeast starter that needs to be made at least one day ahead.

Consommé avec Petites Profiteroles Active time: 2 1/4 hr Start to finish: 20 hr (includes making stock)

This will make more barbecue sauce than you'll need for the chicken. After measuring out basting and serving amounts, save the leftover sauce for another grilling use. It will keep, covered and chilled, 2 weeks. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 3 hr

We serve this sauce with both the sugar snap pea tempura and the pork and jicama dumplings . If you make only one of these hors d'oeuvres, however, this recipe should be halved.

Pork shoulder bacon may not get quite as crisp as belly bacon, but it has a great taste and a meaty texture. Even if you have a thermometer for your grill, you'll still need an instant-read — the grill thermometer won't register low enough to monitor the cold-smoking.

Asparagus or peas may be added to this recipe. Gremolata—a mixture of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley typically sprinkled over osso buco (braised veal shank)—is not traditionally used in Italian Jewish vegetable dishes, but it gives this one lightness and sparkle.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.