Gourmet

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Makes enough for 1 spotted dick or jam roly-poly You can order ground fresh beef suet from your butcher. The suet will not be rendered; the process of rendering suet is a simple one and will yield a lighter, cleaner-tasting pudding.

Harira Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 12 1/2 hr

We've taken the French tradition of eating radishes with salt and butter (which tames the vegetable's bite) just a step farther. Serve the beurre blanc and salt in small individual dishes so guests can dip as they like. This fresh, springtime hors d'oeuvre would be well matched with steak or grilled fish.

We found that half a chicken breast (about 1/3 lb) per person was plenty when served with the rest of this menu, but you could increase the portion to a whole breast per person.

This cake is actually better when prepared ahead and chilled overnight— it allows the flavors to fully develop and the cake layer to absorb more of the cream. Top the roulade with more cream, pecans, and crystallized ginger just before serving.

You might be tempted to bake 2 sheets of cookies at a time in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Don't give in to this urge—the cookies must go in the middle of the oven to cook through and brown evenly.