Brioche is a special bread because of its delicate crumb, richness and flavor. The traditional fat used is butter, but other cultures use lard. I propose one very good reason for using schmaltz instead of either: flavor! This is a delicious savory bread that makes superb dinner rolls to serve with chicken or turkey, a simple salad, chicken soup, or anything, really.
As far as I'm concerned, this version is out of the park (my assistant Emilia started it, I finished it, Marlene tested it and confirmed). You need to make it the day before you bake it, but it's a really simple preparation. It can be baked free-form, in individual ramekins, or in a loaf or terrine mold. Marlene made nifty "bubble top" rolls by filling muffin cups with three 1-ounce/30-gram balls, a technique she picked up from Dorie Greenspan's excellent book Around My French Table. I had my first bite while it was still warm from the oven, with a little extra schmaltz and a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt. Heavenly. If you bake it in a rectangular mold, slice it and toast it, delicious.
This from Marlene: "OK, I want to say I was skeptical of this at the beginning. The dough smelled chickeny, not only while it was rising but also while it was baking. However, these totally rocked. There was no hint of chicken in the taste or the smell in the final product. The crust is the best I've ever produced. It was crisp, almost flaky, like biscuits. The crumb was delicate and soft."
