Years ago, I tasted these grilled beef skewers at a restaurant in Orange County’s Little Saigon, where they were served with a hoisin-based peanut sauce. When I got home, I researched the recipe in cookbooks published in Vietnam decades ago and developed this recipe, which includes shrimp sauce (mam tôm) to give the beef a distinctive savory depth. Typical of food from Vietnam’s central region, these skewers are rich and a bit salty. Dipped in the earthy sauce, they are addictively good—the perfect match for a cold beer, margarita, or gimlet. Tri-tip steak (from the bottom loin), a flavorful cut that California cooks like to grill, is ideal for these skewers. A thick piece of flap steak (from the short loin), which is oft en used for carne asada, also works well. For the true flavors of the Southeast Asian table, grill the beef over charcoal or a gas grill. In the absence of a grill, use the broiler.
These grilled beef strips are wonderful stuffed into a sandwich (page 34) or featured in a salad roll (page 32). They may also be used in place of the stir-fried beef in a rice noodle bowl (page 224). Or, roll them up with lettuce, mint, and cilantro in fresh rice noodle sheets (page 200); cut each roll into 2- to 3-inch lengths and serve with the hoisin-garlic sauce. You don’t need to skewer the beef if using it in these ways, though it makes grilling the strips easier.
