Tucked inside the āGospelā chapter of Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes from My African American Kitchen is a harvest of recipes Alexander Smalls dedicates to āfield greens and green things.ā Here, youāll find dishes highlighting the best of summer produce, like sweet corn and okra (lots of okra). This is also the place youāll learn ways to incorporate the holy trinity of Louisianaāonions, bell peppers, and celeryāinto your cooking, and where youāll find Smalls reminiscing on the magical feeling of tending his grandfatherās garden.
And it's the place where you'll find one recipe in particular that captures the entire essence of a southern summer: the Creole Caesar Salad, fully loaded with fresh tomatoes, fried okra, and cornbread croutons, all tossed in a zesty red bell pepper dressing.
For Smalls, cooking is an opportunity to playāto bring together multiple sources of inspirationāand this salad was no different. āI took inspiration from a classic European concept, and brought in the color, heat, and bold flavors of the African American Lowcountry and Creole kitchens of the South," Smalls says. "Itās a wake-up Caesar salad.ā
It was the cornbread croutons that first drew me to this salad. But after making it, I realized the real star of this dish is the dressing, which brings out the flavors of that holy trinity. To make it, you roast half of a red bell pepper in the oven until it becomes soft, charred, and intensely sweet. Then you sautƩ onions and garlic, and put it all in a food processor with chopped celery, vinegar, cayenne, mayo, and Parmesan cheese.
It's a dressing that's much more than a dressing. Smalls calls it āa Creole or gumbo sauceā that you can pair with almost anythingāI implore you to layer it on your burgers and sandwiches. āI use it as a topping for salmon, chicken, everything," Smalls says. "The dressing is boss.ā
But donāt sleep on the other components of this salad. The fried okra gets doused in spiced buttermilk before being dredged in a combination of cornmeal and rice flour, which gives it a light, flaky crust. Adding to the wonderful texture of the salad is those croutons, made by toasting cubed pieces of stale cornbread in a hot oven.
The grape tomatoes, cucumbers, and corn kernels add color and coolness. āItās really a ācoming togetherā of the garden. Itās the garden at its best,ā Smalls says. āWorking all of these flavors into one dish speaks to the African, Spanish, and French influence of the Southāand the corn is just so Native American.ā
Itās a combination that canāt be achieved by blindly tossing together a few ingredients. To make this salad, you take time to bake and roast and fry. And once you taste the union of flavorsāthe hot, crunchy okra with buttery cornbread and bites of fresh cornāyou'll know that every ingredient (and step) was essential.
Like no other salad I've had this summer, this one offers a full experience: a blast of heat and a crunchy coolness in every bite. āItās sassy, bold, flavorfulāall of that on top of romaine,ā says Smalls. āI love romaine, because itās sturdy and firm. This isnāt the place for baby spinach or wilted leaves.ā
Smalls knows you may be tempted to take shortcuts with this salad. But he asks that, at least the first time you make it, you donāt leave anything out. Just stay the course.
āOnce youāve mastered the recipe, youāll be equipped to branch out and make it your own,ā he says. āThink of the salad as life in a bowlāyouāve got to learn the rules, then break them.ā







