Dried Fruit

Ken Haedrich, cookbook author, says, "Since moving to New England nearly twenty years ago, I've heated the house with wood-burning stoves. And because our big Thanksgiving gatherings put oven space at a premium, I've often pressed those stoves into backup duty. That's how steamed breads—which can be cooked on top of the stoves — came to be a regular part of our feast. This steamed pumpkin bread provides another way to bring good pumpkin flavor to the meal, too. I also serve my special crescent rolls on the big day. One year, my kids let it be known that they wanted croissants on Thanksgiving, but that seemed like a bit more work than I could handle. Instead, I came up with these sesame crescents—croissant-like rolls with savory onion filling. I guess they did the trick, because nobody says much about croissants anymore. Plus, I can make the crescent rolls two weeks ahead and freeze them. That way, they don't take up any of that precious oven space." Note that this bread needs to cook in an empty 28-ounce food can (such as the kind used to hold whole tomatoes).

These flavors and aromas transport me to Marrakesh, where our friend Latif, son of the late imam of the great mosque there, guided us through the bustling and mysterious spice markets. Here's how I've recaptured the memory: a boned leg of lamb is stuffed with intensely flavored dried apricots, high in beta-carotene and potassium, then rubbed with aromatic cumin. Buy your cumin from a Middle Eastern market or spice store for the most flavorful results.

The acidity of the vinegar and grapefruit is balanced by the quince, apple, and pear flavors in this French-style chutney. Bananas add creaminess. Use ripe fruit for best results.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 20 min

If you can't find Italian Moscato, substitute Essencia, the Muscat-based dessert wine made in California. Serve this rich custard with the raisin-studded cookies featured here.

"Richardson's Canal House Inn is in a historic building on the Erie Canal, outside of Rochester, New York," says Ellen Wagner of Pittsford, New York. " All the food is great, but the apple raisin cake is especially good. It's so moist and delicious—know gourmet readers would love it. Will you request the recipe from the pastry chef?" Pastry chef Debbie Maruke glazes the cake and serves it with a caramel sauce, but we think the cake is terrific on its own.

Arroz con Leche Mexican cooks prefer Ceylon cinnamon, a less pungent variety than the cassia cinnamon sold in U.S. markets. In Latin American markets, it will simply be labeled canela (Spanish for "cinnamon"). In supermarkets or specialty foods stores, look for Ceylon or Sri Lanka cinnamon.

Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Cassolita Cinnamon-scented caramelized onions and fried almonds crown this dish of baked squash that traditionally complements the couscous of Tétouan, a city steeped in Andalusian culture and cuisine. In Kitty's family, cassolita or cazuelita (little pot) always accompanies a platter of couscous. She serves it with her Thanksgiving turkey as well.

Assemble these four hours ahead, and rewarm them 20 minutes before serving.

This updated classic adds dashes of red — and depth of flavor — to the usual apple, celery, and walnut mix. Make the salad ahead and refrigerate, then add the watercress and pecans right before serving.

Most of the Christian Mediterranean cultures have some form of rich, festive egg bread that they prepare for the Holy Week before Easter. This is when pinze were made at our house. It is a tradition that is still strong in the Veneto region of Italy. The panettone and colomba cakes often found in the country today are derivatives of pinza. Making good pinza requires some understanding of leavening and bread making, which I have carefully described below. It also requires patience, because the dough, rich with eggs and butter, requires several long risings. Serve slices of pinza with espresso, tea, or, in the morning, with caffè latte. For a richer dessert, top with whipped cream or mascarpone and berries, or enjoy it as is on a wonderful festive table or for brunch on Easter Sunday. The loaves keep well for one week at room temperature if sealed in plastic wrap for six to eight weeks in the freezer. For the effort, it pays to make a larger quantity and enjoy for weeks after.