Baby Back Rib

Bourbon adds oaky sweetness to the honey-hoisin-chili glaze.

I once considered making more authentic smoked ribs for a tailgate party and, in the planning, realized that not only would I need to be at the parking lot hours before everyone else, but my grill was not large enough to smoke enough ribs for everyone in my party. And to try to pass off just "a taste" of barbecued ribs is like trying to arm-tackle Priest Holmes. So it was a choice between shelling out for another grill or devising another method of cooking the ribs. Baking them first in a slow oven produced moist, flavorful meat I then had only to finish on the grill.

Years ago, in one of his famous cooking classes, James Beard showed us this simple, "can't fail" method for roasting spareribs. He predicted that this recipe would become an all-time favorite, and he was right. These ribs have the rich flavor of pork, which you can really taste, and they are also very tender and moist. Who needs all that BBQ sauce? If you can, get baby back ribs — they're best — but any pork spareribs will do.

A slightly sweet tomato sauce blankets these tender baby back ribs.

Be sure to remove (or score) the membrane on the underside of the ribs so that the seasonings can penetrate and fully flavor the meat. Even better, ask the butcher to remove the membrane. What to drink: Kenwood Vineyards 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($17).

Joan and David Oswalt of Pasadena, California, write: "David and I both love to cook, but our approaches couldn't be more different. He'll start from scratch and spend months perfecting a particular dish, while I prefer to take a basic recipe and just add my own touches."

Look for meaty ribs that aren't over-trimmed; the bones on top shouldn't show through. This recipe doubles or triples easily.

Baby back ribs are less fatty than spareribs, and this marinade is flavorful without being a heavy barbecue sauce.

Steve Katz of Potomac, Maryland, writes: "I would like to share a recipe for the most finger-licking baby back ribs you'll ever cook on your stovetop. The secret ingredient is Lapsang souchong tea, used in the braising liquid to give the ribs a smoky flavor. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

At Clark's Outpost Barbecue in Tioga, Texas, Warren Clark uses St. Louis-style pork ribs (slabs of ribs that have been trimmed to uniform size) and prepares them in a smoker. To make this recipe easier, we call for the more readily available baby back ribs and suggest a combination of baking and grilling for equally delicious results.

To create a meal around these sweet and pungent ribs, just add fresh corn on the cob and a salad of watercress, red onion and orange slices.

To make these slow-cooked ribs, the barbecue is used as a smoker. The instructions given here are for a standard 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different brands. The only special equipment needed is a charcoal chimney, which is available at most hardware or home-and-garden stores. Marinate the ribs a day ahead.

Provide knives so your guests can slice the sections into individual ribs. Have lots of damp paper towels on hand.

To make these slow-cooked ribs, the barbecue is used like a smoker. The instructions given here are for a standard 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different brands of barbecues, and it may be necessary to cut the rib racks into four- or five-rib portions so that they’ll all fit on the grill. The only special equipment needed is a charcoal chimney, which is available at most home and garden stores and hardware stores.

Sometimes baby back ribs are sold in sections of four to six ribs rather than as whole racks; those will also work here. Begin preparing the ribs a day before serving so that they can chill overnight after the spice rub has been applied.